Plaza San Martin

The park we lived off for a week, at its purple best in November.

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🏛️ Plaza San Martin Essentials

Best Time: November

Three weeks of jacaranda, then it is over

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Allow an Hour

Longer if you sit, which you should

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Free and Always Open

It is a public park, not a sight

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Retiro Station Below

Trains north and the bus terminal

🧭 Why Visit

We stayed a block from this park and crossed it several times a day, which turned out to be the best accident of the trip. It slopes down from the palaces to the station under old trees, the tower stands at the bottom of it, and in the middle of November the jacarandas make the whole thing purple. Everything else in the city started with a walk across it.

🏛️ A Little History

The square carries the name of Jose de San Martin, who liberated Argentina, Chile and Peru, and who drilled his grenadiers on this ground before taking them across the Andes. The palaces around it went up when the country was briefly one of the richest on earth, and the Palacio San Martin, built for one family in 1909, has belonged to the Foreign Ministry since 1936.

💡 Did You Know?

The clock tower at the bottom of the slope was a gift from the British community for the 1810 centenary, finished in 1916, with a clock and bells copied from Westminster. It was the Torre de los Ingleses until 1982, when the Falklands War cost it the name. It is the Torre Monumental now, and the square beside it was renamed too.

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Getting There & Around

  • It is a flat twenty minute walk from here to Recoleta through the best streets in the city
  • Retiro station sits at the bottom of the slope for trains north and the long-distance buses

Local Know-How

  • The jacarandas peak in the middle of November and the fallen blossom on the paths is half the show
  • Sit on the grass in the late afternoon; the whole city does, and it is the best free hour in Buenos Aires

Frequently Asked Questions

When do the jacarandas bloom?
Late October into November, with the peak usually in the middle of the month and the whole thing over inside about three weeks. We were there in the second week of November and it was full.
What is the tower at the bottom of the park?
The Torre Monumental, given by the British community in 1916 for the centenary of the May Revolution, with a clock and bells modelled on Westminster. It was called the Torre de los Ingleses until 1982.
Is Retiro a good place to stay?
We stayed here and would again. It is central, walkable to the centre and to Recoleta, and quieter at night than Palermo. The area immediately around the station is best avoided after dark.
Can you go inside the Palacio San Martin?
It is the Foreign Ministry's ceremonial building and opens for guided visits on some days. The ironwork on the entrance is worth a look through the railings regardless.

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